Designing and Building a Fashion Brand: En Masse

The development of En Masse served as a full in-house case study

— an opportunity to apply strategic thinking, design craft and production knowledge across every stage of a fashion brand’s lifecycle.

Rather than outsourcing or fragmenting the process, En Masse was conceived, designed, tested, manufactured and launched entirely within the studio. What follows is an insight into how we at UNDERFOUND Studio approach fashion brand creation from the inside out.

The starting point was not product — it was intent.

We began by defining the cultural and emotional territory the brand would occupy. Extensive visual research explored themes of collectivism, strength in numbers, European sports culture, underground movements and everyday uniform dressing. This research stage produced early moodboards, reference films and material studies that guided everything that followed.

The objective was clear:
to create a fashion brand that felt considered, restrained and durable, both visually and philosophically — resisting fast-fashion cycles.

Naming was treated as a strategic exercise rather than a creative afterthought.

The name En Masse — French for “in a group” was selected to reinforce ideas of unity, shared identity and collective movement. The studio deliberately avoided overt slogans or literal descriptors, opting instead for language that carries cultural weight and longevity. This reinforces the initial inspiration coming from the Parisian hip hop and streetwear subculture.

This philosophy extended into:

• Straplines

• Typography choices

• Copy tone across digital and physical touch points

With the brand framework in place, we moved into collection architecture.

Rather than designing isolated products, the studio developed a cohesive system of garments that can work together as outfits.

• Core silhouettes

• Repeatable fits

• Limited but intentional colour palettes

• Subtle seasonal evolution rather than constant reinvention

Design development focused heavily on weight, drape, durability and repeat wear, ensuring that each piece felt purposeful rather than decorative. Colour pallete's that are chosen are not only designed to be in keeping with the identity, but commercial, knowing that the black/cream/navy colour-ways can be worn all year round and are consistently popular.

Sampling went through multiple refinement stages, with adjustments made to fit, fabric density and construction to meet both aesthetic and performance expectations.

Manufacturer selection was one of the most critical phases.

We conducted extensive research into ethical European production partners, prioritising:

• Fair labour standards

• Proven textile heritage

• Premium material sourcing

• Small-batch capability

• Consistent quality control

Portugal was selected due to its reputation for high-end garment manufacturing, technical expertise and ethical transparency. The studio worked closely with manufacturers to ensure garments met exact specifications — from GSM weights to stitching density and wash processes.

Local UK partners were then used for finishing processes such as printing, allowing for tighter creative oversight and reduced waste.

Visual identity for En Masse was developed by our team as we handled all art direction, photography and post-production.

Rather than high-gloss fashion imagery, the creative direction favoured:

• Natural light and honest texture

• Movement over pose

• Real environments over artificial sets

• Subtle storytelling over overt branding

This approach ensured the visuals reflected the same restraint and authenticity present in the product design itself.

Video content was treated as a narrative extension of the brand rather than just a marketing tool.

Campaign films and short-form content focused on:

• Rhythm and pacing

• Atmosphere over explanation

• Emotion over instruction

We applied our background in documentary-style filmmaking to fashion, creating visual language that feels human, grounded and cinematic. This aligned with how modern audiences consume and connect with brands and helped shape our short film campaign vignette 'En Masse: Rematch'.

The creation of En Masse demonstrate our broader capability: to build brands holistically, without fragmentation.

By controlling strategy, design, manufacturing, imagery and film under one roof, the studio ensures:

• Creative consistency

• Faster iteration

• Clearer brand identity

• Reduced compromise

• Ethical and sustainable measures

This integrated approach allows ideas to move fluidly from concept to physical product — with every decision informed by the same creative vision.

En Masse continues to evolve, but its foundation remains the same: design with intent, manufacture with responsibility, and communicate with clarity.

For our team at UNDERFOUND Studio, the project stands as a living case study — proof that when creative process is respected at every stage, the result is not just a brand, but a system built to last.

Be sure to reach out to our team if you would like us to build something for you or your brand!